So often I see people limping around in painful climbing shoes, peeling them off sore, tapped toes in-between climbs.
In this blog I will give you the tools to decide what climbing shoe you need, and how to get the best fit for you.
In answering the question: 'Do rock climbing shoes have to hurt?' The answer is....well it depends.
If you are a professional boulderer in the Olympics the answer to this question might be 'yes'. But for everyone else..... especially for those just starting out.... I'm going to tell you the answer is no. They shouldn't.
Surprisingly if you go into many outdoor gear and climbing shops to ask for advice often you'll hear things like 'go down a full shoe size', 'your toes should be curled'. But if you're going into a shop asking for climbing shoe advice - you're not at a stage where the super aggressive, super tight fitting shoe is necessary.
It also depends on what climbing you want to do. Are you a boulderer? Indoor climber? Trad climber? Do you want a shoe for steep overhangs or long all day alpine routes?
Finding a climbing shoe that does it all - from steep boulder routes to long trad routes is like trying to find a flying unicorn. It's just not going to happen (but if you have found one please let me know! both the shoe and the unicorn!)
Profile:
Neutral/Flat fit - these shoes will offer the most support and comfort. Usually, shoe with a flatter profile will have a stiffer last (with some exceptions). This is because without a downturn your toes will need the extra support to push on those little holds. A stiffer last also offers more support to your foot, meaning they won't get as tired on long climbing days. They are also great for crack climbing - foot jams!!
The only downside can be that the thicker last makes the shoe less sensitive.
If you are looking for a comfortable shoe for all day cragging, long multipitch routes and crack climbing - this could be the shoe for you.
Aggressive/ Performance fit - The more downturn in the shoe's last the more power is driven to the toe and heel making it easier to pull with your feet on very steep terrain.
A good downturn will help with standing on small edges and heel hooks. Getting the right fit is important, but no matter what - you will find these uncomfortable when on flat ground and very, very uncomfortable in cracks! If you looking for a shoe for short, powerful steep overhanging routes - this could be the shoe for you.
Moderate/Technical fit - This is the shoe that meets in the middle. Maybe not quite as comfy a fit as a flat shoe but a good combination of comfort and performance. If you are looking for a shoe to push your trad/sport grade, a more technical multipitch climb and/or for more advanced indoor climbing - this could be the shoe for you.
Asymmetry
When it comes to the shoe asymmetry it is best to look at the sole of the shoe. It indicates how curved the last is. Originally climbing shoes had no asymmetry, as in... you could pretty much put a shoe on either foot. Our feet do have a natural curve to them so having no curve isn't good, so soon shoes with a slight curve came onto the market.
A climbing shoe now will come in a category of three, low (near symmetrical), medium and high (asymmetrical). Shoe asymmetry reflects how much the toe of the shoe is in line with the heel. Like the profile, shoe asymmetry is a trade off; comfort vs performance.
Low asymmetry is the most comfortable and helps distribute the load from the toes to the rest of the foot. Good for all day comfort, smearing and crack climbing.
As the asymmetry increases it concentrates more power between your second and big toe. The bigger the toe...the bigger the power.
This drive power is especially helpful when using the inside edge, or the very tip of the toe box. As well as pulling on pockets on steep terrain.
A high asymmetry shoe usually goes hand in hand with an aggressive downturn. This curve and twist creates tension within the shoe. The apposing forces of your foot trying to fight the shape of the shoe back into it's natural position allows the shoe to stay tightly gripped to your foot. This tension generates more power from your toes. Allowing you to push harder on small holds.
Yes - that's right....basically OUCH!!!!!
Now this power and precision is amazing on steep terrain. But try them for long days or crack climbing and you will soon regret it.
Shoe Closure Systems
The main closure styles found on climbing shoes are; Velcro, laces and slip-on.
Velcro - Velcro is probably the most popular closure system, especially in indoor climbing. It allows some degree of customisation but is easy and quick to put on and take off. You will find the most aggressive shoes have Velcro for this reason. Tighten them when you're about to climb, loosen and slip your feet out when not.
Slip-ons - Slip-ons or slipper style isn't as common but some people do love them. In generally they aren't as easy to get on and off as Velcro because they need to be tight to get a snug fit. Some people love them for their low bulk style.
Laces - Laces offer the best custom fit. You can adjust different parts of the foot much better. For example, keep the toe box slightly looser if you need more room, and cinch the top. They are slightly less bulky than Velcro and usually the closure of choice for trad and crack shoes.
Shoe material
Shoe material is worth thinking about when you are looking for a shoe, both leather and synthetic as well as lined and unlined.
Leather - Leather shoes fall into two categories: unlined and lined.
Unlined leather - These shoes are more prone to stretching, making proper sizing crucial, as they will stretch further with wear. Despite this stretch, leather conforms to the shape of your foot well and provides superior breathability, making it ideal for extended wear or warm environments.
Lined leather - Shoes may still stretch to a degree, but the lining restricts this, ensuring a more consistent fit. Different materials are utilized for the lining; some provide extra cushioning, which may diminish the shoe's sensitivity required for precise footwork. Some shoes are fully lined, while others are partially lined in strategic areas to manage stretching whilst keeping as much sensitivity as possible. They are an excellent option for climbers seeking the comfort of leather with minimal alteration to the shoe's fit.
Synthetic -
Synthetic uppers minimize stretching, ensuring a stable and consistent fit that stays cover the shoe's life. They are also favoured by the animal-conscious or vegan climbers. Although synthetics are generally less breathable than leather, the level of breathability can differ based on the particular synthetic blend used by the manufacturer.
How to fit a climbing shoe
As I mentioned at the start, opinions vary widely regarding the size of climbing shoes you should choose. However, the rule of sizing down is a bit old-hat. The reality is that the size of a climbing shoe varies dramatically from brand to brand, and even the model. . It is impossible to say what size to get as there is so much variation, as we've discussed above the shape of the shoe can very much determined what size of that shoe you'll need.
It's important to try them on and ideally have a go on a wall.
First things first - decide what shoe you are looking for. From all the information above you can now decide what shoe (or now you'll realise what shoes) you are wanting.
Now you can focus on the fit and feel of the shoe. Brands and models vary and its important to try them on for the best fit. Remember to consider the material, will they stretch much?
A snug fit in climbing shoes is very important, it significantly enhances their performance. A snug fit offers greater precision, the ability to stand on tinier edges, and heightened sensitivity. However, this does not mean you need to force your feet into a shoe that is far to small for you. I see this so often at indoor climbing walls and all you do here is ruin your feet in the future.
Conversely, oversized climbing shoes can feel awkward, sloppy, clumpy and numb. Those wearing shoes to big for them struggle to use the tip of the toe box on small holds and often are clumpy on the wall.
Once on, look at the following areas of your shoe for fit (or test them out)
Toe box – It's crucial to ensure that your toes are not curled up inside the shoe, yet they should fit snugly. All your toes ought to touch the end of the toe box without leaving any unused space.
Heel – this should be snug and secure. A good fit in the heel will make heel hooks so much stronger. You don't want your heels slipping out!
Sides – your shoe should be snug around the side of your foot too. If your toes are in the toe box but the shoe is still baggy - try a lower volume shoe.
Your shoes may be too large if:
- There's a gap between your heel and the shoe's opening
- The material gathers or bunches
- Your foot slides around inside the shoe
Your shoes are too small when:
It’s painful!
A note on gender -Typically, women's climbing shoes are designed with less volume than men's, offering a better fit for those with narrow feet. Women's shoes generally feature a low cut around the ankle, a lower profile, an elongated toe box, a smaller heel cup, and a higher arch compared to men's climbing shoes.
Choosing the right climbing shoe involves various factors and is not as simple as it may seem. Although climbing shoes are often categorized as "men's" or "women's," they are not gender-exclusive. So it's important to focus on the fit not the label!
Do you have bunions? Avoid a climbing shoe with a narrow, pointed toe box (its hard when you are looking for performance but some level of compromise is needed). I'd recommended a shoe with a wide asymmetry and bigger toe box with a stiffer last. Leather is also a good option as you can stretch out the area specifically for your bunions getting a much more custom fit.
In summary - before you head out shoe shopping have a good think what you want your shoe to do. Then go and try as many as you can! Try different sizes, material and look for those all important features. Often there are hybrids of the above; a mostly neutral shoe but with a very slight curve, or perhaps a sharper toe box. Allowing slightly more precision on a comfortable shoe.
Good luck in your search for a flying unicorn! 😂
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